While many consider New York Fashion Week to be a platform for newly graduated designers, we can’t ignore the collections of Tom Ford, Marc Jacobs, Raf Simon’s designs for Calvin Klein – or any of the other big names that continue to rock this city’s show. This year, as the world is enthralled in the battle for diversity and inclusion in fashion, many designers utilized plus-size and transgender models. Fashion houses Proenze Schouler and Rodarte, having moved to Paris, were regrettably missed.
One cannot talk about NYFW without mentioning the street style of the industry lovers who transform the streets and sidewalks of the Big Apple into a real catwalk. Fashionistas, bloggers, influencers, stylists and industry insiders deploy their best weapons on the New York City asphalt to unveil what will soon flood the biggest events and catalogs.
The latest trends and riskiest styles are sought after by the paparazzi and industry photographers outside of the entrance to each show. Instagram influencers like Olivia Palermo, Chiara Ferragni, Helena Bordon, and Giovanna Battaglia never let us down. Their favorite trends – and now ours – oversize garments, swishing with movement; asymmetric shirts in the style of Monse; belt bags that we can’t get enough of; wearing multiple small Valentino handbags; sock boots first designed by Balenciaga – the trendiest accessory by far; kitten heels; and giant jeweled sunglasses in tomato red, olive green and silver.
Calvin Klein’s Spring 2018 collection draws inspiration from the Hollywood dream factory in his portrayals of the American nightmare contrasted with the American dream, complete with heroines of thrillers, heroes and antiheroes. The aesthetic codes of movie stars are unlimitedly mixed, giving their meanings a new interpretation and celebration. In an unique collaboration with the Andy Warhol Foundation for Visual Arts, this collection incorporated a selection of Warhol artwork as placement screen prints. The pieces feature portraits of Warhol, art collector Sandra Brant and film star Dennis Hopper.
Marc Jacobs remains the king of controversy. Like last season, when he shook the fashion world with his dreadlocked models, this season had the commentators talking. His mystifying show featured no music. In silence, the designer went deep into the afro culture to bring the headwrap style with colorful silk turbans from all over the world created by Stephen Jones. This isn’t their first collaboration with headwraps – Jacobs and Jones styled Kate Moss with a gold turban at the 2009 Met Gala. Jacobs redefined sportswear, craftsmanship and flat slide sandals by adding stones and presenting them with glamour, class and elegance on the catwalk. The double style bags were a powerful touch. His use of sequins in the collection didn’t disappoint.
Faithful to his style, Christian Siriano presented a very diverse collection in every sense of the word. With a cast including transgender, plus-size and racially mixed models, in addition to the remarkable presence of his great friend, famous American comedian, Leslie Jones, Siriano left his own colorful mark on this collection which was punctuated by bold colors giving a playful nod to the 70s energy and interesting textures. Coco Rocha opened the show. This designed exhibited his creative genius by adding swollen sleeves, showing suits with capri pants, jumpsuits, ball gowns in metallic colors, and evening dresses with flower shapes. All tastes were served in a single collection. We’re dying to see some of his extraordinary dresses on the red carpet.