For the Love of Coupes

Every fall, I relish writing my annual column on crystal, stemware, and glasses. To be honest, I have a bit of a problem when it comes to stemware and my collection now requires not just a disproportionate amount of cabinet space in my kitchen but also overflows into my studio (where it competes for space with my affection for tableware).

I feel no shame and love having the perfect glass at hand for whatever elixir finds its way into my abode.

Yes, one can drink wine from any old vessel, but certain glasses are tried and true. Such glasses embrace the philosophy wherein form follows function and, when enrobed with style and artistry, elevates the very nature of the wine and one’s experience of it. Perhaps no glass represents this dynamic better than the champagne coupe.

The origins of the coupe are not entirely clear, but there seems to be some agreement that it emerged in 1663, designed by a Benedictine Monk in England. Other origin tales attribute its unique shape to being molded after the breast of Marie Antoinette or the mistress of King Louis XV of France, Madame de Pompadour. Though the timing doesn’t quite work out for the breast-inspired design tales, it’s a titillating tidbit of lore.

What we do know is that the coupe was widely used in the French courts of several monarchs as champagne’s popularity soared following its debut in 1668. Thereafter, it was the glass for partaking in champagne for several centuries.

There are many opinions and preferences for what constitutes the ideal glass for enjoying champagne and other sparkling wines. Some prefer a glass with a large enough bowl to truly experience the aromas of the wine, something a flute typically does not yield. Others argue that larger bowls, including the saucer style of a coupe, utterly fail in appreciating the nuances of bubbles, which quickly dissipate in the larger bowl.

Here is my take: drink your bubbles in whatever feels elegant and elevated. For me, that is sometimes a flute (Tiffany and Co.’s discontinued Hampton line is a bold and sublime statement of classic style), but more often than not, I reach for a coupe. Its saucer-like bowl provides ample opportunity to appreciate the color and bouquet of a sparkling, although, admittedly, one loses a bit of the magical effervescence. For my taste, the price is well worth it for the statement of distinction that results from a gracefully and gleefully cradled coupe.

This month, we profile four gorgeous coupes from the world’s top glassmakers. They represent an evolved approach to the coupe, where longer stems and therefore greater height are dominant, which in turn, feels more natural to hold them not just by cradling the bowl, but holding them by the stem as well, much like one holds a flute. Some of this evolution is also powered by the role that coupes play as the glass of choice for the emergent cocktail culture, a trend reminiscent of 100 years ago when coupes also reigned.

Make no mistake – coupes are back and when executed properly, they are high fashion crafted in crystal and deserve space in your collection of stemware. So make room, celebrate like a monarch, and consider these immaculate examples for your collection and your next celebration.

As Always, Salud!

Waterford Lismore Essence Champagne Saucer

Waterford Crystal dates back to 1783 when George and William Penrose started the Waterford Glassworks in the city of Waterford in Ireland. That company was shuttered in 1851, and the company would not be revived until 1947 in the economic promise that emerged after the Second World War.

In short order, Waterford Crystal products became the definition of post-war luxury and several fine designers began to make their own mark within the House. Among these was Miroslav Havel, who in 1952, launched the iconic Lismore design. As the company describes it, “(t)he pattern was an ode to the Gothic architecture of the 800-year-old Lismore Castle, inspired by the symmetry of the towers, pointed arches and elegant curves of the windows.”

Although entrenched in Irish history and design, the contemporary take on the Lismore pattern is entirely modern. I kept thinking to myself, “this isn’t your grandmother’s Waterford set.” And yet, even the contemporary interpretations are resonant with Havel’s original aesthetic. Signature hallmarks of the design, such as diamond and edge cuts, have been scaled back in volume, creating a sleeker, more understated expression.

The Lismore Essence Saucer is a statuesque glass at just over seven inches tall, nearly three inches taller than the traditional Lismore coupe. The stem is slender and elongated and the bowl, at 4.6 inches in diameter, is generous in its proportions with a 9-ounce volume capacity. Another departure from the traditional design is the absence of cuts into the underside of the glass’ base – another nod to a cleaner and more modern style.

In the hand, this is a grand, yet balanced glass that feels more comfortable being held by the stem. The large bowl allowed for bubbles to emerge from the bottom and then float and congregate to the sides and the thin walls of the glass create a refined mouthfeel when drinking. A set of two currently retails for $220 at waterford.com and other fine stores, including Bloomingdales and Nordstrom.

Waterford Copper Coast Mastercraft Coupe

The majority of Waterford Crystal’s products are now made outside of Ireland, but the House’s Mastercraft collection continues to be handmade and mouth-blown in Waterford. The Copper Coast Coupe is part of this collection and, whereas the Lismore Essence coupe feels entirely contemporary in style, the Copper Coast coupe feels classic and wonderfully of another era in time, yet updated for today’s tastes.

Waterford’s description of the glass anchors it in the company’s Irish roots, saying it “beautifully captures the essence of the rugged Irish coastline. The wide central band of tight refracting caro cuts imitates the ocean’s movement, while the deep cut rings symbolise the horizon. The olive cuts at the base reflect the minerals extracted from the rocks by the ancient miners, making this piece a conversation starter.”

The bowl itself is large with a volume of 10.5 ounces, and the glass stands at 7 inches tall with a 4.7-inch diameter. The olive cuts at the base of the bowl are a stunning element in how they capture the light through the golden hue of a sparkling wine. The glass is elegant and a true marriage of cuts in the traditional style (including to the underside of the base) with a more modern and curvaceous design to the bowl. What differentiates it entirely from older designs of the House is the upsizing which creates both a classic and an on-trend statement.

Waterford’s website currently offers at least nine different styles of coupes, including the higher end Copper Coast coupe (a set of two is $460) to Waterford’s affordably priced Marquis line where coupes are offered at $20 a stem.

Riedel Veritas Coupe/Cocktail

Austrian glassmaker Riedel is prodigious in their designs and production and can be found nearly everywhere and at a wide variety of price points. Some of my favored stemware for both everyday and entertaining is from Riedel.

It was odd then, when I ventured into research on coupes, to find only a single coupe in Riedel’s entire line up of currently available products. I found the answer on their website in a blog post about the history of the champagne glass (https://www.riedel.com/en-us/blog/education/evolution-of-the-champagne-glass):

“While it may help you live the life of a flapper, its shape is completely ineffective when it comes to expressing wine’s profile…The open design causes both bubbles and aroma to dissipate almost immediately and, if you consider that 70% of our perception of flavour comes from aroma, you’re losing a lot of your experience for fashion’s sake.”

To quote the inimitable Vivienne Westwood, “Fashion is very important. It is life-enhancing and, like everything that gives pleasure, it is worth doing well.” And doing well with drinking champagne is finding the appropriately fashionable glass, including the coupe. This is very important.

And while Riedel prefers stemware for champagne that stylishly leans deeply into the appreciation of the wine itself, their Veritas Coupe/Cocktail glass is a work of refined, minimalist art. When our publisher at Polo Lifestyles first saw the glass, he said it reminded him of Naomi Campbell on the runway. Now that… is fashion.

Of all the glasses tested for this feature, the Veritas coupe did marvelously on being able to visually appreciate the bubbles. This is in large part due to the entirely clear and unencumbered view through the bowl’s delicate, thin walls. The glass stands at 6 ¾ inches tall and visually, the most interesting feature is the large diameter base which feels almost as large in circumference as the bowl itself. It creates a splendid balance to the piece, and a long, slender stem harmoniously marries the two discs.

The Riedel Veritas line debuted in 2014 and is a precision, machine-made glass and is available at www.riedel.com. The Coupe/Cocktail retails at $89 for a set of two.

Baccarat Talleyrand by Starck

Established in 1764, Baccarat is the epitome of luxury and style in crystal. My own collection of coupes includes both the discontinued Provence and Capri lines of Baccarat, but several coupes are currently available from existing collections.

The Talleyrand collection dates back to at least the 1930s, but in 2023, the Talleyrand line was re-imagined through the artistry of designer Phillipe Starck, whose history and collaboration with the House goes back two decades.

The Talleyrand coupe is magnificent in every respect. It’s weight and clarity – hallmarks of Baccarat – impart an elegance from the moment you hold the glass (which, for me, was holding it by the underside of the bowl as opposed to the stem). It’s luminous, with sculpting to the underside of the bowl creating a depth of visual interest. The hexagonal base, etched with a modern “Talleyrand by Stark” underneath the iconic “Baccarat” etching, contrasts with the rounded, flared bowl. More than a statement piece, this is a generational heirloom of perfection.

As we go to press, the Talleyrand Coupe is sold out on Baccarat’s own site, but is available at Neiman Marcus and Saks Fifth Avenue, among others, and retails for $1,500 for a set of two.