Gabriela Hearst won her first Womenswear Designer of the Year on Monday at the 2020 virtual CFDA announcement made online via video by the chairman Tom Ford. While Hearst's show has been moved this season to Paris, where she will be showing her women’s spring collection, the designer has been incorporating a few menswear looks in the recent seasons in New York, a small peek into what is now a larger range for spring 2021.
A slim and lean tailored silhouette with light artisanal handiwork construction pervades the entire range of clothes from the collection from the navy or ice blue wool two-buttoned single-breasted jacket pantsuit to white or navy wool or double face cashmere ankle-length trench coats or peacoats to salmon wool sweater paired with navy linen cigarette five-pocket pants. These are the staples of any men’s wardrobe like a hand-knit pullover in two-ply knit recycled speckled cashmere yarns. The real difference is that the entire production of these clothes is made from repurposed materials from cashmere to wool to silks, linens and cashmere corduroy, all reworked so that the fabrics are light and can easily drape. Even a light brown suede blouson is made from leather treated on the reverse with nappa finish.
Hearst has built her business on making durable, luxurious clothes with a sustainability model up and down her entire supply chain.